Contemporary Hairstyle!

    For my contemporary hairstyle I decided to go down the big hair route. I've also been inspired by catwalk shows of models wearing heart shaped hair and decided to recreate something similar on my model. I started off by sectioning and crimping her whole head of hair and I then sectioned the hair into quarters and took rat buns and rolled each section of hair to meet at the base of the head then pinning into place. I then look my thin tailed comb and made some finishing touches like moving the hair to make sure the hair was touching and flowed in a perfect heart shape and I was finished!
    I was really happy with my outcome looking back at it now, whereas at the time I was getting stressed over the slightest thing and felt my look was the worst thing in the world when in reality for my first go I thought it was a pretty good go. However in the future I will work better on my pinning as it always looks so messy and untidy, and also work on finishing touches like making sure the hair is all level and no fly aways are showing.

Hair Inspiration For Designs

    Here are some of the images that have inspired me though out this project and helped me create my final designs. And as you'll be able to see I was mainly inspired by the big, back combed hair and shaped hair that queen Elizabethan would have worn and how different designers such as Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, and everyday hair trends have interpreted this classic style of Elizabethan hair.














    I wanted to go down the shaped, big hair route opposed to a more slick plaited look as for me big hair embodies Elizabethan hair and I wanted to put my own twist on that by using inspiration from different shapes and creating different textures to the hair like other designers had. I did draw up some designs that involved a more tight structure, and I do still like those designs but they didn't scream Elizabethan unlike big voluminous hair does and I also found that I was inspired by more shaped hair as you'll be able to tell from the images above so I went with my gut and my designer instinct and went with my chosen design which was my heart shaped hair design which I'm so happy and excited about seeing my design on my own head and model it!

Hair Chart: Contemporary Design

    Today I did my first hair chart! The guidelines for this design was to create a contemporary hair design for a high fashion designer catwalk show, for my first design I decided to go big and heart shaped! To create this I would crimp and backcomb the whole head of hair and either use a rat roll or tightly pack the hair by rolling it again itself and continue either methods around both sides of the hair creating a heart shaped front and back of the hair. Possible decoration to the hair would include lace, pearls or another idea is gold flakes and I'd scatter them around the hair with no coordination to create an undone effect to the hair.

    My second design was inspired by a classic messy bun but enlarged and with so much more volume! To recreate this I would backcomb the whole head of hair, with possible crimping to add different textures to the hair, and pulling it up into a high ponytail that'll sit around the crown of the head. After I had got my high ponytail I would create a small bun on the top of the head while fluffing up the rest of the hair around the bun to create a sunken in effect.

    For my third design I really liked the idea of an up do that was more tight and beehive shaped, but still incorporating the Elizabethan style with strands of hair crimped and pinned up against the backcombed hair and tight curls on either side of the head and a plait running around the front of the hairline. I liked this design because it would elongate the hairline which is a feature that the Elizabethans really liked to enhance and it apparently made them seem more intelligent. I do really like this design idea, however I think some of my other designs are much better and more contemporary Elizabethan style.

     My forth design I wanted to keep on the simple side of things and went for straight, messy hair with random strands of hair lightly crimped or curled to create more texture to the hair and to also put a more modern twist on Elizabethan hairstyles. I really like this idea of having straight hair for my contemporary hair design as it's moving away from a classic up do, but I also think that this design might also be too contemporary for this project. 

    My final two designs are rather similar in the sense that they both involve plaits wrapping around the head, but in different styles and shapes. My fifth design is revolving around the same style as my first design as it has the classic heart shape, but I thought I'd incorporate plaits wrapping around the backcombed hair to, again create texture and also incorporate Elizabethan classic hairstyles into one hair design. Again, this design is also one of my favourites but realistically I don't think I could create this look within the standard time that we're given.

    My final design was inspired by the head pieces that Elizabethans used to wear, but instead of using the cap I'd recreate it by wrapping around plaits at the crown of the head, kind of putting an Elizabethan spin on a milk maid braid. 

Elizabethan Hairstyles On A Real Person!

    In Thursdays lesson in hair it was my turn to create an Elizabethan hairstyle on a real person and not on my Kate dolls head. After looking at some reference images of Elizabethan hairstyles, and using all my knowledge from previous lessons to create my first attempt at my hair design.
    I started off by sectioning the hair from just behind the ear and tired the rest of the hair back into a ponytail and then started crimping, working my way upwards until I had finished the whole front section of the hair and the backcombed to create heigh and more texture to the hair. After I had reached my desired heigh I then started to roll the hair back to create a bump in the hair while pinning it back to the crown of the head and adjusting the hair at the front to make sure it was symmetrical and getting rid of any fly aways with hairspray, which is when I started on the back of the hair. In the bun department, I wouldn't say I was very strong, so with trying to find ways of using the back of the hair I really struggled to try and create the perfect Elizabethan bun which had to be tight, not big and soft like modern day buns. So to start off I tried twisting the hair and wrapping it around the hair tie, this effect wasn't exactly want I wanted as I felt it looked messy and just didn't suit the rest of the look, so I then looked at twisting the hair but plaiting a small section of hair then using to decorate the bun after, I also didn't like the overall effect this gave to the look so for my third try I loosely plaited the hair and wrapped it around the hair tie and pinned it into place. I felt like this technique worked the best out of all three tries as it sat on the head just how I'd pictured it before I started this hairstyle.
    After my final look was done I made some small final touches with hairspray and I was complete! I'm quite pleased with how this came out for my first go on an actual person, even though I have so much to improve on like how to create heigh with the hair without it possibly collapsing, my pinning technique on how to make the pins almost invisible to the eye, and lastly perfect how I create buns but I'm still happy with the overall outcome and will defiantly keep practicing until I have perfected all my weak points, and create my own contemporary design.

    I thought I'd write about my experience while getting my hair done by someone else, as I thought it would be useful for other person to read my experience if they've never had it done before. Firstly, the girl that did this hairstyle was very gentle and was very aware of what could happen while applying heat to the hair and hear the scalp which was very reassuring and it created trust with that person. While getting my hair done I learned that you have to be very patient with that person if they aren't very confident with hair/aren't sure what look they're trying to create/maybe aren't doing things as you would necessarily do them, as this is their way of learning and you can't disrupted that learning curve. Overall the experience was pleasant and hopefully my partner when it comes to creating our final looks is just as gentle and thoughtful as her.  

Modern And Elizabethan Shaping

   Though out Queen Elizabeths portraits if you take a close look at her hair in a pretty big handful of them her hair has been shaped into that classic heart shape or rounded off look that has been associated with the Elizabethan era for years, and many designers such as Alexander McQueen and Chanel have used this as inspiration though out catwalk shows and editorial. Here are some examples of shaping has been used to create certain shapes within the hair and how designers have taken the classic shape with a pinch of salt and put their own twist by taking things to the extreme, or having their interpretation very true to the Elizabethans designs but still not quite a classic replica.

1st Trial at Elizabethan Hair

    In our last hair session of the week we was told to create an Elizabethan inspired hairstyle! I started off how I did my crimping and back combing experiment by sectioning the hair but into three parts and back combing the second section which keeping the back and the very front clipped back. Once I had moulded the second section to my desired shape, in this case I tried to shape it into a heart although it just ended up looking very round, I then focused on the very front section. For this section we learned a new technique on how to recreate a crimping effect but you could keep very tight or loose, which you need a large pin and starting at the base of the head go in a zig zag movement though the pin until you reach the end, and after I had finished and pinned the hair into place and let them set I took them out and place it over my dolls already back combed hair. And lastly the very back of the hair, and created a very tight bun which is what the Elizabethans would of done to finish off the look but not to distract from the main section of my design.
    In conclusion, this may of not been my best design but I think it was still a good start! I was very happy with my back comb section and my crimping section laid over top as I thought it gave the hair a different kind of texture which the Elizabethans loved to create with their hair. I look forward to creating different looks and getting better at hair till I find that perfect modern Elizabethan hairstyle!

Modern And Elizabethan Frizz

     Frizz is something that is mainly assumed though out the Elizabethan era, with all her tight curls there has to be an element of frizz, and back combing to help her achieve the heigh she so desired frizz is assumed to have been present. Now days frizz is sometimes desired or hated by some people, we're sold products to help our bed hair frizz at bay but we see images from Marc Jacobs models rocking the big crimped hair. I personally don't mind a bit of frizz as I think it makes the hair seem more undone which is a look I love, unless you're going for a sleek red carpet look, frizz maybe the last thing you want to achieve.
    Here are some examples on how designers have taken their inspiration from the Elizabethan era and took it to the extreme! Of course I'm sure you wouldn't want to walk out the house with hair double the size of your head (and if you do, go you!) And especially as most of the make-up they pair with this hairstyle is bleached/light eyebrows it really embodies the Elizabethan style. Another example of someone who is inspired by Queen Elizabeth herself is Beyonce in her promo photos for her tour Mrs. Carter World Tour. You see her walk out from head to toe in a completely modernised version of Queen Elizabeth, something more modernised than others but her hair really has that vibe of the Marc Jacobs shows with more of an Elizabethan touch by using objects in and around her hair the same as Elizabeth would do.

Crimping And Back Combing

     Our lesson on crimping and back combing was such fun! It really took me back to the 90s crimped hair that all of use desired to have and begged our parents for crimpers (just me?) We also learned different ways of styling the hair and creating frizz and heigh with the hair by using rat buns and back combing to create different shapes with the hair that Elizabethans liked to rock.

Crimping and back combing:

1. Start off by sectioning the hair on both sides from the ear to the front of the head and clip back the hair in the back
2. take one side of the hair and take small sections and crimp working up the hair
3. after this is complete, take those sections and back combing them by slowly pushing the hair back on itself with the comb
4. brush out the hair slightly to make the hair more manageable
5. smooth out the hair that'll be on show and roll back on itself and pin into place

Crimping and using rat bun:

1. Start off the same by crimping the hair
2. take the section and using the rat bun roll the hair over the bun and pin into place, (another technique you can use is take a small section of hair and french braid it and pin the rat bun into place though the braid)
3. smooth out the hair to create a nicer finish to the hair

Modern And Elizabethan Buns & Plaits

    After learning about plaits and buns, I wanted to research how the modern age has modernised the classic Elizabethan hair styles to suit this day and age.
    It was hard for me to find classic images of Elizabethan plaits, but from what I can gather is their plaits would be super tight and sometimes hid if you was a working class women in Elizabethan times. From these modern images compared to Elizabethan images you can clearly see the difference in style that designers have adapted to suit their runway or even in day to day life, people have been inspired by Elizabethan hair for centuries!
    Most Elizabethan plaits was used to create different shapes of hair e.g. round/heart shaped, and they would of been hidden by the rest of the hair, however compared to modern plaits it's most likely to be on show than something to use to create heigh or shape to the hair. As you can see from the images above, most of the plaits are soft yet undone and much bigger than the Elizabethans and this is what I think what really makes the plaits more modern compared to the Elizabethan era.

    Buns are another part of Elizabethan hair that has been modernised by designers and the everyday person to suit trends though out the whole year. 

    The everyday Elizabethan bun hairstyles was just like the plaits, very tight and small, whereas modern takes on buns are normally seen very large and undone as you can see from the images above. I think this is why is just like the plaits it was used to create heigh and shape in the hair, so during the Elizabethan era bigger buns would of been used to create shape and be hidden, but we also have examples of smaller tighter buns being used to finish off the hair, unlike modern day buns the bun is normally used as the main centre point.  

Putting Things Into Hair

    Though out Elizabethan times accessories in the hair was a common occurrence in Elizabeth's portraits. Things like jewels and feathers was some of Elizabeths favourites things to wear in her hair that symbolises certain things to the public when they saw her portraits. Objects was also placed into the hair to create different shapes in Elizabethan hair, very popular shapes was hearts and rounded hair. To create these looks like these attifet hats would be used to create that desired heart shape to the hair which could of been made out of lace and jewels. 

    Other accessories like caul caps, French hoods and pillbox hats was also used to create different looks though out the Elizabethan era if you was royalty, however if you was in the lower class you was more likely to plait your hair with twine or some kind of fabric then tie the hair up before putting it in a bonnet which was also a common accessory for the lower class.

    For my first attempt of putting objects into hair, I first started off by sectioning the hair and french braiding the top of the head till I reached the crown and finished the plait off. After realising that the plait was too tight and my pearls was too large to thread though the hair I decided to create a bun on the back of the head and then thread the pearls though securing them into place where I want the lines to start and finish. Although my bun isn't in an Elizabethan style, I thought it was a good idea to combine contemporary hair looks into my first design however I don't think this will end up being apart of my final design, but the idea of putting things into the hair is something I'm very much interested in for my final design.  

Hair Inspiration - Elizabethan Style!

    There are many adaptations of Elizabethan hair, some more dramatic than others but here are some of the hairstyles that I have taken inspiration for my final Elizabethan hair project. The first thing that came into mind when we was told to create a contemporary Elizabethan hairstyle was hearts, more specifically heart shaped hair and also hearts on the hair like one of the most popular pictures of Amber Rose with her hearts dyed onto her hair. This may not even end up being apart of my final look, but non the less I'm up for trying both techniques out.
    My second option was to go down the massive backcombed and curled look like the Beyonce promo pictures for her Mrs Carter world tour. I think this idea of the massive loosely curled hair would really show a modern twist on an Elizabethan classic as it keeps with the rounded hair trend that was going on at the time. Another feature was the placement of the crown in her hair, I also want to try this technique of having objects that show symbolism just like Elizabeth's portraits.

Curling

    Session two and it's curling! We learned how to curl hair using two techniques which can completely transform hair in completely different ways. The finish product would of been a whole head of hair curled but one half would be barrel curls, and the other half would be sideway curls.

    To achieve barrel curls, (which is what I started off with) start by:

1. Sectioning the hair into half or wherever you're planning on curling the hair and start with small thin sections and splitting it in half, or quarters depending on how big the section of hair stretches too. 
2. Next after sectioning the hair, gather the hair and place the curler at the end of the hair while clipping the end onto the curler and curl upwards till you reach the base of the head.
3. Hold for a few seconds then pin into place at the base of the head. 

    The second method of curling is the sideways curl and to achieve this you start with:

1. Start the other side as if we was about to barrel curl but instead of curling upward, place the wand straight up and curl either left or right alternating with each curl.
2. After curl is complete pin to the base of the head and leave to set. 

Here is the finished product from both sides of the head. As you can see the side with barrel curls (right) has so much more volume and height, but it has also made the hair appear much shorter than it naturally is. However, the side with the sideway curls (left) hasn't got much volume but has kept that length unlike the barrel curls. After I shook the manikins head out, the hair started to sit a lot nicer and started to create a look, rather them sitting how they was pinned to the head. In reality if I was doing this on a person I would of backcombed the hair and started to try and style this which is what I go to next with brick laying barrel curls.

Even though I only worked on a small section of hair, the effect the brick layering gave was so much nicer compared to my first go at curling.

1. Sectioning a part of hair at the back of the head, start gathering sections like the first two curling methods.
2. Carry on curling the hair in barrel curls in the pattern pictured above until section is complete and set.
3. Lastly after taking the curls out, shake the hair out and comb though the hair until you're happy with the final look.

Hair conditions: Contagious & Noncontagious

Being a hair and make-up heavy based course we will come in contact with many different peoples hair. It is important that we learn hair conditions that are and aren't contagious so in the future when we meet clients we know how to deal with these issues.

Noncontagious:

Dandruff: is one of the most common scalp disorders that humans experience. It can easily be recognised by small white flakes that appear on any hairy region on the body.

Dry dandruff: can leave small trails of flakes and can adhere to clothing 

Oily dandruff: can be more troublesome than dry dandruff as the flakes are mixed with subum and difficult to brush out. Medical treatment is the best way to treat.

Alopecia: is the technical term for hair loss.

Trichoptilosis (split ends): where the hair has split.

Contagious:

Pediculosis Capitis (head lice): a very common disease that can be quite difficult to deal with for a number of reasons.

This disease is caused by a tiny bug known as louse that lays eggs or hits along the hair shaft close to the scalp. The eggs or nits adhere tightly to the hair shaft and can't be removed easily.

Buns

Day two of my first official week of uni, and we’re doing hair! I’ll be honest, I’m terrible at hair, dreadful even. So during welcome week when our lecturers was explaining the hair portion of this course I wasn’t expecting anything more than; “Ellie, you’re doing this wrong”, “no do it this way”, “God what was you thinking?”. But, surprise! I didn’t completely suck today!

 After the demos that Lottie did on her model, we all tried to recreate all five basic hairstyles on our manikin. We started off with a stylised bun which we created in four simple steps!

- First take a section of hair from just above the ear (see imagines above) and tie up with a band.

    - Next section the pony tail into four equal sections and backcomb the bottom of each section as this side will no be showing, but also slightly brush the top just to make it more tidy looking as this is the side that'll be showing.

    - Once all this is completed, start by rolling the hair over itself and pin it into place so it looks like the second image above.

    - Lastly, gently shape and push the hair till it meets each section then pin the sides that meet together, and you're done!

I was quite proud of my first attempt at this as my natural approach would be to use a hair donut, but this really taught me a different technique of what I could use in the future while doing this course.

These next two techniques are the most simple ones we was taught today, and require the same technique of using the same pony tail as before, twisting or plaiting the hair and wrapping it around the hair band and securing it in place with a bobbie pin. 

1. twist bun

2. plait bun

Next we went onto braids. We started off with a classic french braid which only took three simple steps!

- Start off by taking any section of hair, (you can still use this same technique when doing the full head of hair) and gathering a small section of hair from the top as if you're about to do a normal braid

- Start off braiding like you're doing a standard braid, but after the first cross take a small section of hair from the hair that wasn't included in the first small section at the top which including it into one of the side sections of the braid

- Carry on crossing the sections of hair from the left over hair until you run out of hair then tie with an elastic

 

And lastly, the fish tail braid! One of my personal favourites when it comes to simple yet effective hair styles. I know a lot of people may get put off by doing fish tail braids as they look very complicated, but once you get the hang of the technique they're just as easy as doing a simple braid.

- Firstly, start with a section of hair (again, you can still do this braid with a full hair of hair using this same technique) and separate it into two

- Take very small sections of hair from one side of the hair, and cross over onto the next side & repeat until you have no hair left 

- Keep in mind that to not have the braid too tight or too loose over wise it'll become hard to work with

(Top images show a braid that was a bit too tight to work with, whereas the images below show a braid that is just about right!)